Ignored, Disrespected, and Forced to Toe an Outdated Line
In 2019, the chef Stephanie Bonnin prepared for a cooking residency at Deer Mountain Inn, a Catskills resort about two and a half hours north of the city. Reservations had sold out for the Culinary Institute of America graduate’s menu, which was based on the cooking of Colombia, where she grew up. Quickly, Bonnin remembers, she grew frustrated with the way her male cooks behaved. “I hired my kitchen staff, two guys, and they wouldn’t take direction, they would question everything I said,” she re